Doing the ‘Clapham Walk’

Unlike the well-known ‘Lambeth Walk’, this is not a new dance but a reflection on a heritage walk I organised (with historian Steve Martin) in Clapham Common on 21st August 2022 as part of the Mayor of London’s ‘London Unseen: Heritage Tours and Trails’!

Clapham has fascinating links to my Sierra Leonean Krio history and heritage and was perfect to recount this incredible, often untold history of the City of London. The ‘Krio’ people are the descendants of various African-American, African and Caribbean previously enslaved and free peoples who abolitionists such as Granville Sharp, William Wilberforce and Henry Thornton resettled in Sierra Leone’s ‘Province of Freedom’ from 1787 onwards.  

They and a few other abolitionists were known as the ‘Clapham Sect’ - mainly prominent, wealthy, evangelical Anglicans who worshipped at Holy Trinity Church on Clapham Common at the end of the 18th Century. Cousins William Wilberforce and Henry Thornton (who became Members of Parliament for Yorkshire and Southwark respectively) were two of the group’s most influential leaders and many of the Sect’s meetings were held in their house in Clapham.

The British had effectively started the triangular Transatlantic Slave Trade when John Hawkins first captured 300 people from Sierra Leone in 1562 and sold them to Spanish plantations in the Americas. So, it seems only right that there were those (for whatever reason, hopefully altruistic) who sought to end this heinous crime against humanity!  In 1799, the Sect founded the ‘African Academy’, a school to educate children from Sierra Leone and send them back mainly as missionaries. Some of these children are buried in Clapham.

The Welcome

So it was that on a glorious, warm and dry afternoon (my prayers had definitely been answered!) Steve and I welcomed participants outside Clapham Common Tube station, by the clock tower which I learnt was unveiled in 1906, dismantled and rebuilt when the new ticket hall below it was built. Food bags and registrants sorted, my introduction followed and included the fact that it was a Krio descendant named Ivor Cummings who as the first Black man to work for the British Colonial Office in London (as Assistant Welfare Officer) is said to have suggested the air raid bomb shelter near Clapham South Tube Station be used to temporarily house the new arrivals from the Empire Windrush docked at Tilbury in June 1948. Ivor Cummings helped them settle and find employment and as the nearest labour exchange to the shelter was in Brixton, many of the settlers set up home there making it one of Britain's first Caribbean communities. So, in a way Ivor Cummings - a Krio man- can be credited for the early African-Caribbean make up of Brixton!

Spot The Plaque!

Then at about 2.15pm, twenty-three people set off (well, twenty-five if you include the two little ones in buggies!) and our first stop was near 5, The Pavement which was the former house of Zachary Macaulay a member of the Clapham Sect, who also became a Governor of the Sierra Leone Colony. Gathered around some trees, Steve challenged us to spot the plaque. Not easy as it was way up above the Waitrose store opposite, though the more eagle-eyed did eventually spot it!

The ‘Clapham Sect’

Next was the historic Holy Trinity, a parish church for Clapham, first opened in 1776, the year America declared its independence from Britain. At the front was a blue plaque to commemorate the fact that William Wilberforce and his companions worshipped there and at the side a World War 2 bomb damaged plaque which listed members of the Sect. 

Steve gave the group interesting perspectives of the Sect which can be viewed on this clip: Click to view via Vimeo

A Notorious Merchant

Next, we gathered opposite 30 Clapham Common North Side, near the former home of George Hibbert, a prominent West India ‘merchant’ and one of the minds behind the creation of the West India Docks where produce from the plantations was processed. Hibbert became the first Chairman of the West India Docks Company and his portrait hangs in the London, Sugar and Slavery gallery of the Museum of London Docklands at West India Quays. He later became a Member of Parliament and would vehemently argue against Wilberforce and abolition of the slave trade. Ironically, he also worshipped at the Holy Trinity church with Wilberforce and other abolitionists!

Education, Education, Education!

You’ve guessed it, we were now heading towards the African Academy, but first two interesting stops. One by a blue plaque at the former home of author Graham Greene where I informed walkers that his famous book ‘The Heart of the Matter’ was based on his experience living in Sierra Leone as a “British Intelligence Officer” in World War 2. Probably a nice way of saying ‘spy’? Another short walk and we stop near the site of the old Clapham Hall where according to the Clapham Gazette of 1 February 1868 (well Steve!) an evening entertainment had taken place on 14 January in which minstrels performed and an oration about the distinction between ‘white minstrels’ and ‘black minstrels’ took place. I have substituted ‘minstrels’ for the derogatory n-word that was actually used! Those were awful times of racism and stereotyping and thank goodness the BBC’s ‘Black and White Minstrel show’ is now a thing of the past.

For a perspective of the African Academy as only Steve can give do watch this video clip: click to view on Vimeo

We then headed to Clapham Old Town to a Georgian House on Rectory Grove. In 1799, Zachary Macaulay (remember him from earlier?) returned to Britain from Sierra Leone, bringing with him 25 children (mainly boys), aged from 10 to 19 and set up a school known as the ‘African Academy’. The aim was to train this young generation in skills to support the colony and return them to Africa. Reading, writing, arithmetic were taught, but emphasis was also on religious instruction. The school ended in tragedy as one by one many of the children died, not of the cold, but measles. Sadly, of the original 25 only six students had survived by 1806 and only a few returned to Sierra Leone. Two of the boys are thought to be buried in the churchyard of St Paul’s Church which was our next destination.

Our last official stop on this interesting walk was the cemetery at St Paul’s Church where two of the boys from the school are said to be buried although there are no identifiable headstones. What is clearly identifiable is the Hibbert family tomb as you enter the churchyard where the son of George Hibbert, also called ‘George’ is buried. One of the children from the school, another ‘ George’ (Did they all have to name their children after the reigning King George?!) was the son of John Kizell who is worth knowing about. John Kizell was born in Sierra Leone, enslaved as a child and taken to South Carolina. During the American Revolutionary War he gained freedom with the British and was amongst the Black Loyalists shipped to Nova Scotia. In 1792, John Kizell was amongst those Black Loyalists that left for Sierra Leone and was uniquely one of only 50 native-born Africans out of the 1200 returnees.  He became a leader and worked with both the British Colonial Government and agents of the American Colonisation Society.

Learn more about John Kizell from this clip: view on vimeo

Food and Drink Time!

After our interesting , educational walkabout, it was time to network and sample some delicious Sierra Leonean finger food (including ‘akara’) and fiery home-made ginger-beer.  This we did on some nearby benches and was a perfect end to our interesting day!

Steve I. Martin is an author and historian. He is also a consultant and curator working on archival projects and exhibitions for museums and galleries nationwide. Steve also conducts Black History and other walks which often tell London’s untold stories.

Photo Credits: Vanessa Ansa and Hassan Aliyu
Video Credit: Wilfred Wright